New New Homes For Sale In South West Florida

Hot Water Heater Hook-Ups Made Easy


Hooking up a hot water heater is one of the most common home repair jobs there is. However if you dont know what you are doing, or dont know the first thing about hot water heaters, well then you could be in hot waterquite literally. But installing a hot water heater can actually be a rather easy thing to learn. You just have to make sure you read all the directions before you start so you dont get in over your head before you even start. The last thing you want to do is realize you cant do this and then be stuck without any hot water!

The first thing you have to do is the most obvious. You have to disconnect and remove your old hot water heater. Doing this is pretty easy. You just have to be careful. Remember it is full of hot water still. So, first turn off your gas or electricity that is connected to that water heater. You will then need to drain the water from the old unit. There should be a drain valve located on it. On a gas heater, separate the vent pipe from the draft hood. The hood should lift off after you remove the sheet metal screw that holds it. After checking that the pilot light is out, disconnect the gas line at the heater and cap it.

Next remove the water heater from the water pipes. Be careful when doing this because the pipes may still have hot water in them. This water is hot enough to burn you if you are not careful. You may need some pipe wrenches to get some of them off, but there should not be many connected so this step should not take too much time or effort. You may now take out the old hot water heater and throw it away. Many local and state laws have certain restrictions on the disposal of these, so check with the local authorities on the disposal requirements.

Now that you have the old unit out, it is time to install the new unit. Move your new hot water heater to its new home by using a dolly. You dont want to walk it or drag it. There are delicate parts inside that can be damaged if it is jolted or subjected to too much shock. Position your new heater so that the pipes will easily reach it. If you are using gas, you want to be especially careful that the gas pipe can reach easily to avoid any potentially dangerous gas leaks.

Next connect the hot and cold water. This is usually a simple process of connecting the new water heater to the same connections as the old water heater. Then you connect the third pipe to the main water line that distributes the water to the rest of the house. Refer to the user manual if there are no connections, or if you are confused as to which pipe goes where. This is the most common mistake made in installing a hot water heater. If you turn on the water and your cold water turns hot, and your hot water never heats up, go and switch the pipes.

Next you need to locate the relief valve on your newly connected hot water heater. The temperature and pressure relief valve is a very important part of your hot water system. The relief system releases excess heat and pressure automatically so that your hot water heater does not explode. It is a very important and a valuable safety feature that comes standard on all hot water heaters.

The last step in connecting your new hot water heater is connecting it to the power. You have to connect it either to the gas line or the electricity for it to heat the water. Refer to the instruction manual on how to do this.

If you follow the directions there is no reason that you can not successfully connect your new hot water heater. It is a fairly easy job. It just takes a little time and patience and anyone can do it. It is simply a matter of reconnecting to the new hot water heater, everything that you disconnected from the old one.

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Screened In: How to Replace the Screens in Your Windows


In many parts of the world, window screens are an important necessity of comfortable living. While extremely helpful in keeping out unwanted intruders and letting fresh air flow in, screens are by nature delicate and often need repair or replacement. Particularly if you have a rambunctious dog and a sliding screen door, as my parents do. In their case, they have learned to keep a roll of fresh screening handy. In your case, hopefully this wont be quite as regular of a task!

On the do-it-yourself (DIY) scale, repairing or replacing screens is relatively easy and requires little elbow grease. The only materials required are:
new screening or screen patches
scissors
household cement
screen rolling tool
razor knife
square
1x2 and 1x4 stock to stretch the new screening
stapler
brads
wood putty

Screen Repairs
If you have noticed a small hole in your window screen, less than about 3" in diameter, you can simply repair the hole. Plastic screens are difficult to patch and should probably replaced. Fiberglass screens can go either way, while metal screens are easy to patch.
1. Measure the hole(s) and buy ready-made patches or cut them from new screening. For small holes, the patch should have a minimum diameter at least a half-inch larger than the hole. Larger holes require a full inch extra diameter of replacement screening.
2. To insert the patch into the screen, unravel quite a few strands around the patchs edges. Interweave these strands with the screening and bent until the patch is held tightly in place. The stands can usually be bent by hand, but if the screening is heavier you can use long-nosed pliers. Plastic patches also require some household cement on the strand ends after they have been woven into the screen.
3. Small holes (less than 3/8") with some household cement.

Screen Replacement
Replacing screens in metal and wooden frames can require different procedures. Because replacing screens in metal frames is easier, Ill discuss that process first and then move on to replacement of screens in wood frames.

Replace screening in a metal frame
1. Remove the screen from the window and lay on a hard, flat surface large enough to support the entire frame.
2. Remove rubber edging from the old screen. Set aside for reuse if it is in good shape. If not, discard it. Measure and cut new rubber edging.
3. Remove the old, damaged screening. The damaged screening and any scraps can be saved for future repairs.
4. Using the old screening as a pattern or measurements of the window, measure out the new screening from a replacement roll. Be certain to leave sufficient excess screening on all sidestypically enough to reach the outsides of the frame and a bit more.
5. With a screen rolling tool, start in a corner of the frame to tighten the screening into place. Press the rubber edging into the groove and secure the screening in the frame. Work your way slowly and with a steady hand around the screen. This helps avoid the errors of bending the screen frame, which is often made of thin aluminum, and ripping the screening with the screen rolling tool.
6. If you are finding the process difficult, try tacking the material to the frame first (recommended for fabric but not aluminum) or use a spreader to support long screens.
7. When the screening is pressed tightly into the frame, trim excess material with a razor knife.
8. Replace the screen in the window. Sit back and relax in your insect-free home!

Replace screening in a wood frame
Replacing the screening in a wood frame can be more challenging because of the care necessary in affixing the screening to the frame.
1. In the existing frame, start in the center of a strip of screen molding and work toward the ends, prying slowly along the way. Be careful not to break it.
2. For wood frames, the wedge method of stretching ensures tight screening for a quality finished product. For this method, have some 1x2 stock that is slightly wider than the frame handy. Also use 1x4 stocks to make the wedges.
3. Cut new screening from a replacement roll. Be certain to leave sufficient excess screening on all sidestypically enough to reach the outsides of the frame and a bit more.
4. Staple screening across top edge. Nail the bottom cleat to a bench or flat surface and install the 1x2 cleats. Roll the new screening over the cleats and nail to the top cleat.
5. Between the cleats and screen frame, insert the wedges. Tap wedges until the screen is pulled taut.
6. Every few inches, put a staple in the screening along the bottom and then the sides.
7. Trim excess screening. Countersink brads to refit screen moldings and fill holes with wood putty.
8. Finally, staple the entire screen tightly in place working from the center brace outward. Remove the wedges and the screen should stay taut. Use a screen rolling tool or putty knife to replace the screen moldings. As with the metal-framed screen, relax and enjoy the peace and quiet your hard work has afforded you!