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On the Level: How to Hang a Picture Properly

Hanging a picture may seem like the simplest of all home improvement projects. While it is quite easy, there are factors like wall type and object weight that you need to consider before hammering away. If youre a beginner or if youve hung pictures before but always done some in a hit or miss kind of manner, these tips will come in useful.
The first thing you need to do is purchase the right fasteners for your picture and your walls. The most common fasteners for hanging things are picture nails and hooks. While these are the most common type of fastener, they are not the most appropriate or effective ones to use in all cases.
If you are going to hang anything on a concrete, stucco or brick wall, then you should not try to use a regular nail. A concrete screw will securely anchor your object and will prevent you from chipping the walls surface. If you use a nail in a concrete or stucco surface, you can end up removing chunks of the wall around the nail when hammering.
If your object is heavy, then you might want to insert a plastic anchor or molly bolt-for fastening into the hole to ensure that there is no damage to your wall. Make sure that you are using the right type of fastener for your wall surface.
Once youve figured out the type of wall surface and the most appropriate fastener to use, you will need to decide on placement.
The first thing you want to decide is how high you want to hang the object. The basic rule of thumb is to hang pictures so that the center of the picture is at eye level. Have someone hold a tape measure against the wall and then stand back and see what number is at your eye level thats where the center of your picture should be.
Once you decide on the height on the wall, you need to measure the picture itself to determine the mounting height. You will then measure from the bottom of the picture to the highest point of the hanging wire. You can then figure out the hanging height by subtracting half of the pictures height and adding the difference of the eye-height level you measured before.
Your measuring isnt done yet though. You want to take that figure and measure that distance on the wall so you can make a mark where the bottom of the hook will hit. After you have that vertical mark, you want to measure horizontally to ensure that your picture is in the center of the space. Next you will mark where the vertical and horizontal lines cross.
Holding the faster in place, you will nail or screw the fastener into the wall. After the nail or screw is in place, you want to carefully hang the object on the wall. Make sure you are careful not to mark or scrape the wall with the frame.
Once the picture is on the hook, you should step back to see whether it is level. You can shift the picture to either the left or the right to adjust the level.
If you find (after hanging) that the picture is either too low or too high, you can adjust the wire on the back of the picture rather than making a new hole.
If you are planning on hanging multiple pictures and/or objects on one wall, then you want to plan out your measurements very carefully. Start by holding up your pictures or laying them on the floor in the pattern you want. Measure the wall space and measure each picture to ensure that you have enough space. You want to make the vertical and horizontal marks for each picture rather than just guessing. It is often easier to offset the pictures when you estimate. If you do want all of the pictures even, then you need to use a level and be really exact in your measurements. A laser level can be useful in these types of situations.
Dont be intimidated with all of these steps if this is your first time hanging a picture. Taking your time and doing all the prep work outlined above will ensure that your picture is centered, level, and really adds character to your space.

Make sure that the agent you hire is licensed and have a wide knowledge regarding the area.

Happening Hinges: How to Choose the Right Hinge for Your Project


The array of hinges found in a local hardware store can be dizzying. How do you know which hinge is the right one for your project?

First and foremost, you may be able to narrow down the selection by some major factors. Based on the size, weight, and shape of your work materials, does the hinge need to be small and delicate or heavy and durable?

Another factor to consider is that, while most hinges are reversible (either end can be mounted in the upright position); some are made for either a right- or left-hand door. One example of this is the loose-pin hinge. With this hinge, common for hanging doors, the pin must be removed from the top; therefore, you cannot reverse a loose-pin hinge.

You can tell if you need a right- or left-hand hinge by standing on the outside of the door. If the door opens from you toward your right-hand side, you need right-hand hinges. If it opens from you toward your left-hand side, you need to stock up on left-hand hinges.

Also think about how much of the hinge you would like to be showing when the door is closed. If the hinge is showing, should it be decorative in nature or can it be simple and functional in design? If you would prefer most of the hinge to be concealed, will this affect the functionality and ease of use in any way?

Below is an alphabetical list of some of the most popular hinges and their common uses. If you have any questions, speak with a salesperson when you go to purchase the hinges. And happy hinging!

A version of the butt hinge, the back flap hinge is smaller and mostly used for furniture.

The main advantage of a ball bearing hinge is its status as permanently lubricated. They are a more expensive hinge and are typically used for heavy-duty door mountings, such as doors opening to a buildings exterior. They can also be useful for any doors that see excessive use.

Butt hinges are usually between 13 and 150mm in size. They come in two varieties: rigid pin (pin cannot be removed) and loose pin (pin can easily be tapped out with a screwdriver). They are used for mounting regular doors and cabinet doors. The rising butt hinge is designed for use on doors that rest on shag carpeting.

The benefits of the butterfly hinge, used on light-weight doors, lay in the variety of shapes and patterns available and their ease to fit.

The double acting hinge opens in either direction and is used mostly for folding doors.

The flush hinge is not as strong as a butt hinge, and is used mostly as a cabinet hinge. The flush hinge is recommended for use on light doors and in situations where you would prefer to conceal the entire hinge except the barrel.

Knuckle hinges are loose joint hinges that are decorative in nature. Although they can hold a significant amount of weight, their design ensures that a closed door shows only the knuckle of the hinge. Knuckle hinges are recommended for door mountings.

Offset blind hinges are designed to allow a full opening and swing-away such as that typically found on screen or storm doors.

Parliament hinges are recommended when the hinge pin must project beyond the door face.

The pivot hinge is versatile, being used for recessed doors, overlay doors, or flush doors. A benefit of the pivot hinge is that it doesnt need a door frame for mounting.

As the name indicates, the spring loaded hinge contains a spring-loaded mechanism to automatically close the door. Models with adjustable tension features are available.

Table top hinges are recommended for situations where one leaf in a section of wood must be dropped.

Concealed hinges typically come in sizes of 25mm and 36mm. The concealed hinges benefits include being adjustable once fitted. It was designed for use with chipboard and MDF.

Specialty hinges include strap hinges, T hinges, and continuous hinges. Strap and T hinges are available in several sizes and are recommended for heavy installation situations. The continuous hinge, on the other hand, is used mostly on chest lids, cabinets or where a long hinge is necessary. Also called a piano hinge, the continuous hinge comes in brass or steel and in many sizes.