South West Properties

Right on TrackEasy Steps to Mounting Track Lights


Your five-year-old son is going to be the next Picasso, you can already tell. You want to hang his latest masterpiece on the wall and make it the focal point of the room, but how to achieve the effect?

Track lighting, of course! Track lighting offers the opportunity to much better control the mood and emphasis of a rooms lighting. With so many colors and styles, it is just as beautiful as it is functional.

If wiring through a junction box would tax your electrical skills past their limit, track lighting kits are available that simply plug in to the wall. They cant be beat for ease of installation, but they do not look as professional and unobtrusive as those that are actually mounted through the ceiling.

If you are ready for installation that is a little more challenging, follow these easy steps to mount track lighting and give Juniors pice de rsistance the attention it deserves!

Materials Needed
Drill / screwdriver
Electrical cable and tape
Ladder or stepstool
Long-nose or electricians pliers
Neon tester / voltage meter
Tape measure
Toggle bolts
Track light kit
Wire nuts
1. Turn off the power. Turn off electrical power to appropriate junction box through the breaker box or service panel. Ensure that the circuit is dead with a neon tester or voltage meter. Once you are certain the power is off, remove the existing fixture and carefully disconnect wires, keeping exposed ends separate from each other.
2. Wire the live end. Put live end into the track and secure it by tightening the setscrew. Attach the live end to the mounting bracket.
Use pigtail leads to finish wiring the live end. Pigtail leads are short wires connected to terminals. Wire nuts are then used to connect the pigtail leads to the home wiring. Secure the black pigtail lead to the brass screw, the white pigtail to the silver screw, and the green (or bare) pigtail to the green grounding screw.
3. Lay out the track location. Decide on track location based on the existing junction box and which areas youd like the lights to bring focus to. You can purchase fittings for Ts or angles; but double check that the fittings you want are offered by the manufacturer of your chosen track light system.

Mark mounting holes to indicate position. Ensure the track runs parallel to a wall by measuring out an equal distance from the wall to either end of the track. Remember to place tracks an appropriate distance (at least 6") from potentially flammable materials. On the marked places, drill holes for toggle bolts or screws.

4. Mount the track. Place circuit and fixture wires in junction box and install the mounting plate on the box. Snap the track into place on the junction box by following instructions provided for your specific track lighting system.

Put toggle bolts/screws through new track mounting and lift the track to the ceiling. (Recruit helpers beforehand if the track if very heavy or unwieldy.) Into the mounting holes, insert toggle wings but do not tighten. Attach any fittings (Ts or angles) and additional track sections desired, and insert end pieces at the end of the completed track.

Insert the electrical adapter into the track and twist to attach it. Install the cover over the mounting plate assembly and adapter. Place fixtures into the track and twist to secure.

Screw in appropriate bulbs as recommended by the manufacturer.

2. Make connections to house wiring. Twist wire connectors onto the matching colored house and pigtail wires to lock them together. Secure the mounting plate to the ceiling box with the screws provided. Tighten toggle bolts/screws.

3. Apply the finishing touches. Turn the power back on and test the lights. If they fail, turn off and double check the current with a neon tester or voltage meter. Also check your work for missing connections.

Once power has been restored, adjust head angle and position to shine light where you want it. For added versatility, consider purchasing a dimmer to make subtle changes in the strength of the lighting. Relax and enjoy your next dinner party when Juniors masterpiece is lavishly complimented, thanks to the superior showcasing.

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Grown-ups Can Play with Mud Too: Three Basics to Know when Mudding Drywall

After installing and fastening your drywall, you need to move on to the taping and compound stage. This is an important stage because the final look of your walls will really be determined by how well you apply the mud or compound to your drywall.
Here are three of the most basic things you need to know about mudding drywall.
1. Know Your Compounds and Your Tools
Preparation is the key in anything, particularly in home improvement projects. Take the time to familiarize yourself with products and techniques before you begin a project will save time down the road and will also result in a better-finished project.
Jointing compound comes in both a powder and pre-mixed form. There are also different textures. Taping compound is coarse and should be used for the initial taping layer. Topping compound is much thinner and smoother than taping compound and should be used for finishing the surface. There is also all-purpose joint compound on the market, which is halfway between taping and topping compound in terms of both texture and thickness.
To apply the mud, you should be using taping knives. These tools come in different lengths and you should use one that is slightly longer than the previous one for each new layer.
At this stage, you also want to make sure that all of your nails and screws are properly sunk in and that none of them are sticking out. You check this by running a taping knife along the edges and seams. If you feel or hear anything against the metal, then you need to go back and sink the nail or screw further into the drywall.
2. Follow the Proper Steps
Mudding drywall is a four-step, four-day process. You need to make sure that you allow at least twenty-four hours of drying time between each application of compound.
You start with a taping layer. At this stage, you apply compound and then insert paper-jointing tape into the joins and then smooth with more compound. You also need to cover up all of the nail and screws with compound (ensuring first, of course, that they are properly sunk in). After completing the taping layer, your surfaces should be all filled and everything should be leveled.
The next step is to apply two layers of compound that will smooth out your surfaces. With each application youll want to use a taping knife that is one or two inches longer than the previous one. For the second and third coat, youll want to use a taping knife that is anywhere from seven inches to a foot long.
You want to try and apply the compound on the joint and then smooth it by stroking each side and then one last stroke right down the middle.
It can be tricky to apply this compound. Youll need to apply the mud in different thicknesses and with different pressure in different spots. When doing the side strokes, you want to apply more pressure to the outside of the knife, whereas when you do the center stroke, youll want to keep the pressure evenly distributed. This will take a bit of practice and a lot of patience.
The final coat is a finishing coat. This is where you will have to be most fussy to ensure a smooth finished product. Start by scraping a wide taping knife over the joints to ensure that all ridges and bumps are removed.
You can thin out the compound for this last stage. Some people do and some people dont it is just a matter of personal preference.
3. Have a Little Patience
When mudding drywall, the key is patience and consistency. Though you may be eager to get through this stage and on to the priming and painting, this stage is crucial and will make all the difference in terms of the appearance of your finished walls. You need to make sure that you leave the proper amount of drying time between coats. You also want to take the time to check for bumps and ridges between coats and then sand the room after your final coat. This sanding will smooth out any remaining little ridges. This can be a messy process so make sure you lay down plastic to seal off the room and also wear protective gear to eliminate the threat of eye and respiratory irritation.