New Homes For Sale In South West Florida

Screened In: How to Replace the Screens in Your Windows


In many parts of the world, window screens are an important necessity of comfortable living. While extremely helpful in keeping out unwanted intruders and letting fresh air flow in, screens are by nature delicate and often need repair or replacement. Particularly if you have a rambunctious dog and a sliding screen door, as my parents do. In their case, they have learned to keep a roll of fresh screening handy. In your case, hopefully this wont be quite as regular of a task!

On the do-it-yourself (DIY) scale, repairing or replacing screens is relatively easy and requires little elbow grease. The only materials required are:
new screening or screen patches
scissors
household cement
screen rolling tool
razor knife
square
1x2 and 1x4 stock to stretch the new screening
stapler
brads
wood putty

Screen Repairs
If you have noticed a small hole in your window screen, less than about 3" in diameter, you can simply repair the hole. Plastic screens are difficult to patch and should probably replaced. Fiberglass screens can go either way, while metal screens are easy to patch.
1. Measure the hole(s) and buy ready-made patches or cut them from new screening. For small holes, the patch should have a minimum diameter at least a half-inch larger than the hole. Larger holes require a full inch extra diameter of replacement screening.
2. To insert the patch into the screen, unravel quite a few strands around the patchs edges. Interweave these strands with the screening and bent until the patch is held tightly in place. The stands can usually be bent by hand, but if the screening is heavier you can use long-nosed pliers. Plastic patches also require some household cement on the strand ends after they have been woven into the screen.
3. Small holes (less than 3/8") with some household cement.

Screen Replacement
Replacing screens in metal and wooden frames can require different procedures. Because replacing screens in metal frames is easier, Ill discuss that process first and then move on to replacement of screens in wood frames.

Replace screening in a metal frame
1. Remove the screen from the window and lay on a hard, flat surface large enough to support the entire frame.
2. Remove rubber edging from the old screen. Set aside for reuse if it is in good shape. If not, discard it. Measure and cut new rubber edging.
3. Remove the old, damaged screening. The damaged screening and any scraps can be saved for future repairs.
4. Using the old screening as a pattern or measurements of the window, measure out the new screening from a replacement roll. Be certain to leave sufficient excess screening on all sidestypically enough to reach the outsides of the frame and a bit more.
5. With a screen rolling tool, start in a corner of the frame to tighten the screening into place. Press the rubber edging into the groove and secure the screening in the frame. Work your way slowly and with a steady hand around the screen. This helps avoid the errors of bending the screen frame, which is often made of thin aluminum, and ripping the screening with the screen rolling tool.
6. If you are finding the process difficult, try tacking the material to the frame first (recommended for fabric but not aluminum) or use a spreader to support long screens.
7. When the screening is pressed tightly into the frame, trim excess material with a razor knife.
8. Replace the screen in the window. Sit back and relax in your insect-free home!

Replace screening in a wood frame
Replacing the screening in a wood frame can be more challenging because of the care necessary in affixing the screening to the frame.
1. In the existing frame, start in the center of a strip of screen molding and work toward the ends, prying slowly along the way. Be careful not to break it.
2. For wood frames, the wedge method of stretching ensures tight screening for a quality finished product. For this method, have some 1x2 stock that is slightly wider than the frame handy. Also use 1x4 stocks to make the wedges.
3. Cut new screening from a replacement roll. Be certain to leave sufficient excess screening on all sidestypically enough to reach the outsides of the frame and a bit more.
4. Staple screening across top edge. Nail the bottom cleat to a bench or flat surface and install the 1x2 cleats. Roll the new screening over the cleats and nail to the top cleat.
5. Between the cleats and screen frame, insert the wedges. Tap wedges until the screen is pulled taut.
6. Every few inches, put a staple in the screening along the bottom and then the sides.
7. Trim excess screening. Countersink brads to refit screen moldings and fill holes with wood putty.
8. Finally, staple the entire screen tightly in place working from the center brace outward. Remove the wedges and the screen should stay taut. Use a screen rolling tool or putty knife to replace the screen moldings. As with the metal-framed screen, relax and enjoy the peace and quiet your hard work has afforded you!

Many experts believe that what are driving the market are low interest rates, herd psychology, speculation and most of all the expectation of unending price increases.

Drywall Dilemmas: Ten Dos and Donts to make your Job Easier

If youre new to drywalling, then there are some basic tools and methods that you need to familiarize yourself with. Here are the ten top things you should know to make your next drywalling project as easy as can be.
1. Do the proper preparation
Before beginning any new project, you should have an inspection done to make sure that your work will comply with local building codes. You also want to measure your space carefully so you buy the right amount of drywall.
2. Maintain a consistent climate
You may be surprised to hear it, but the climate of your space can have an impact on your drywalling job. Both temperature and humidity can affect joint treatment. You want to make sure that the area you are working in is at 55 degrees for two days before you start the project and two days after it is completed.
3. Wear protective gear
The dust that comes off of drywall (gypsum dust) can cause a great deal of irritation to your eyes and lungs. You want to make sure that you wear goggles and a mask to protect yourself from any health issues. The air you are working in should also be well ventilated.
4. Know Your Tools
The first thing youll need is a basic utility knife to cut the drywall. A T-square will also be useful when making square cuts and a drywall saw will come in handy when you have to make cuts around obstacles in the room. A keyhole saw will help make cuts for smaller obstacles (like electrical boxes).
You might find that getting drywall up on the ceiling is challenging. If so, then you might look into renting a drywall lift. This tool is used by professionals to hold drywall in place while it is nail or screwed to the joists.
To put those nails and screws in place, there are two tools you can use. First, there is a drywall hammer. This hammer is made so that it makes a dimple around the nail without actually breaking the surface of the paper. Second, you can use a drywall screw gun. This tool (like the drywall hammer) allows you to sink in the screw without damaging the surface of the paper.
There are also specific tools for finishing. Taping knives of different sizes will help you get a smooth joint. With each layer, youll want to use a taping knife that is one or two inches longer than the previous one you used.
5. Know Your Fasteners
You cant use just any old screws or nails you have lying around to install drywall. There are nails and screws specifically made for drywall that you will need to purchase at your local hardware or home improvement store. You should be using ring shank nails, which will hold the drywall in place and will prevent the nails from popping out later. There are also different size drywall screws depending on the thickness of your drywall.
6. Cutting and Framing
Whenever possible use a full sheet of drywall. When you need to make a cut, start by scoring the drywall with your utility knife. You should then be able to snap the drywall back and have it break away at the cut.
You want to make sure that all of your studs are securely in place and that they are spaced out evenly. No edge should be unsupported by a distance of more than two feet and all corners should be nailed.
7. Ensure proper insulation
Before sealing up your walls, you want to make sure that you have inserted the proper insulation. Moisture or vapor barriers are also important to consider.
8. Know Your Compounds
Once your drywall is in place, youll want to move on to taping and finishing. Joint compounds come in powder form or they come in a pre-mixed state. If you are using a powder compound, there are two different textures. The first kind is a taping compound, which is used when at the taping stage. It is stronger and courser than topping compound, which is used for the finishing, coats. There is also all-purpose compound, which is halfway between a taping and topping compound.
9. Finish the Joints
Before you start taping ensure that all fasteners are sunk down below the surface. You also want to make sure that corner beads are installed on all of your outside corners.
The taping process is actually a four step process that should take you about four days. You start with the tape coat, which is when you apply compound to the seams and insert paper joint tape. That first tape coat should level off everything. Your next two layers should smooth the surfaces and you should be using a slightly wider taping knife for each application. Your final coat is a finishing one.
10. Sand, Prime and Paint
Now that your drywall is up, you can sand the room and then prime and paint. People are often quick to skip over the sanding process, but to ensure smooth walls; youll want to devote as much attention to this stage as any of the other.