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Five Things to Watch Out for When Installing
An Antenna or Satellite Dish on your Roof
Antennas and satellite dishes are popular ways to connect your television or other different technical equipment. By investing in a dish or antenna, you will have more choices in your home for your entertainment. Dishes and antennas can pick up miles worth of reception for television stations. By installing your own antenna or satellite dish, you will be able to save money.
Before you decide to install an antenna or satellite dish on your roof, there are certain things to consider. By doing so, it will make an easier installation with no complications that may be caused later on. By knowing the directions and details of placing an antenna or satellite dish on your roof, you will be able to enjoy the use of this technology without having to go through re-installing the equipment more than once. By installing an antenna or dish yourself, you can save money and it wont take more than a couple of hours. Be sure to install your new equipment correctly.
1. Installation site. Whether it is an antenna or satellite dish that you are installing, it is important to have a clear path for the dish to receive information. There has to be a clear line of sight between satellites with the entire surface of the dish. The line of site for either the dish or antenna shouldnt be caught in the line of trees, roof tiles, etc. when you place it on your roof.
2. Finding the right place. It is important to keep in mind that with either a dish or an antenna, it is best to put it in a place that not only is clear from any electrical lines, but also allows easy access. By doing this, you will be able to repair or monitor your satellite dish or antenna much easier. If you have to put the dish or antenna on your roof, it is always best to find a place where it isnt going to cause the roof to create leaks into your home.
3. Have the right equipment. There are usually only three parts that you have to connect in order to get the antenna or satellite dish to work right. This includes the dish or antenna, a coax cable that connects the dish to the television and a receiver that plugs directly into your television. When connecting, make sure that the dish or antenna is the shortest distance from where your television is. It is also important to measure the length of the cable in order to determine whether it will reach the dish or antenna from the inside of your home. If needed, you can connect a cable snake to route from further areas if you find it necessary. Other types of equipment which you may need include a drill in order to mount the satellite or antenna in the right place, as well as screws for the dish or antenna.
4. Know which way to point your dish. If you point the dish or antenna in the wrong direction, you wont be able to receive anything. Usually, dishes should be pointed at an angle of twenty-five to fifty degrees. You can find this by a compass that is usually included in the kit that you get when you install your dish.
5. Safety always comes first. When going on your roof to install your antenna or satellite, remember to think of what you need to do in order to prevent yourself from falling. It is best not to go on your roof if the weather has been cold or if it has been raining. Make sure that the ladder that you have is sturdy as well. It is best to have someone hold the ladder for you. Another consideration is to make sure that your shoes have good traction in order to prevent you from falling or slipping while installing the satellite or antenna.
When installing an antenna or satellite dish, there are several things to think through before installation. By knowing the equipment that you need before you go onto your roof, as well as planning out how the dish or antenna will connect to your television, you will prevent hours of repair or work that you may need. By understanding how the dish or antenna will work in relation to your home or television, you will only have to install the equipment once, allowing for an easy installation and several hours of a receptive television.
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Open and Shut Case: Mysteries of the Stuck Window and Door Revealed
Sometimes, when opportunity knocks, you cant get the door open. Its mysteriously stuck. You move over to open the window of opportunity, and after much huffing and puffing, you realize you cant get that open, either. Whats going on here?
Learn all about how and why doors and windows stick and how to fix them, so youre not stuck the next time opportunity pays a visit!
Stuck Windows
Windows can stick for a variety of reasons. Often wood expands and contracts, moving parts have been painted over, or two surfaces may simply seem fused together. Some of the most common problems and fixes for stuck windows are:
Painted-over joint: Cut the paint with a window zipper (tool designed just for this purpose) or a putty knife. Hold blade flat against the sash and push the edge into the joint while drawing the tool along the surface.
Paint build-up: Similar to when joints are painted over, years of painting can also result in an accumulation that causes excessive friction. Use a paint scraper to remove excess paint from the window stop, parting strip, and blind stop. Raise and lower the sash throughout the process. For a lower sash, it is also a possibility to remove the window stop to sand and scrape the edges facing the window. If none of the easier solutions were successful, remove both sashes and completely strip the paint to the bare wood. Repaint the sashes and reinstall when the pain has dried.
Too much friction: Lubricate the sash channels with candle wax or talcum powder. This can also prevent painted surfaces from sticking together. If spring metal weather-stripping is found in the sash channels, reduce tension by using a hammer and block of wood to flatten the strip.
Just plain stuck. A sharp rap to the center rail, near the lock can sometimes break a bond between painted surfaces. The blow can be administered with the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet. Another option is to gently tap a wooden block again the sides of the sash.
New friction channels. If you have some extra time on your hands and are very concerned with preventing heat loss, another option is to install new friction channels. To do this, first remove sashes, weights and pulleys.
Push fiberglass insulation into the openings for the weigh cavities. Start at the top and work your way down with the aid of a flexible rod or stick.
Using a hammer and sharp chisel, notch the ends of the top parting strip to create the new channels.
Replace the sashes in the window frame between the two new channels. Tilt the entire assembly into the opening from the bottom inside.
Finally, reinstall interior stops according to the manufacturers instructions for adjusting tension. If windows are too loose after the stops have been installed, increase tension by hammering a wood block against the stop at nail placements. When the tension seems right to you, drive in several nails.
Stuck Doors
Doors can stick for many of the same reasons as windowstoo much tension, or painting over moving parts. However, with the addition of hinges, that also opens up a whole new area of possible reasons for stuck doors.
Door rubs against jamb. The solution to this problem differs according to which side the door is rubbing against the jamb on. If the door rubs against the jamb on the hinge side, you will need to shim the hinges out. Unscrew the hinge from the jamb and place a piece of cardboard behind it. Shimming out the bottom hinge may resolve the problem of a door binding at the top of the strike jamb.
If the door rubs against the jamb on the side without the hinge or against another part of the door frame, the door may need to be modified so it will fit. Mark the door with scribe lines so you know where to plane and remove the door (removing bottom pin first and working your way upward). Lay the door on a flat surface and plane the appropriate edges.
Loose hinge screws. To fix loose hinge screws, wedge the door open and remove the screws. Fold back the hinge, being careful not to lose any existing shims. Buy or whittle wood pieces to fit the holes. Add glue and push the wood pieces into the holes. Scrape the wood plugs until they are flush, fold the hinge back into place, drill pilot holes and drive in new screws.
Moving a stop. Sometimes its easier to move the stop than unwarp a door. If a door is binding against the hinge-side stop or will not close properly because of an improperly placed stop on the latch side, pry off the offending stop. Close the door and draw a line, along the doors inside edge, on the jamb. Nail the stop on this line.
Moving a strike plate. A latch and strike may get out of alignment because a house had settled. If the strike plate is too far away, shim it out with cardboard. If it is too close, unscrew the strike, chisel out a new mortise, drill pilot holes, and replace the strike. If necessary, use wood putty to fill the old mortise hole and sand until smooth.
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